Dogs bark because they are dogs! More specifically, they bark because:
It’s one way dogs communicate. They bark to alert the pack( us!) to intruders, to invite us over to play, or just to acknowledge our presence.
Barking is particularly common in certain breeds. Terriers were bred to bark to alert their owners to their location while pursuing game under ground. So it may be especially difficult to get a terrier to stop barking.
Barking is a means of expressing a variety of emotions: anxiety, fearfulness, excitement or playfulness, for example. It’s also a way of asking for attention.
They may feel socially isolated or bored. A dog that lacks adequate mental or physical stimulation will bark out of loneliness or an excess of energy.
We may unintentionally reward our dog for barking by paying attention to him when he barks and ignoring him when he is quiet.
So what do I do about it?
First try to figure out why the dog is barking. Then try to deal with the underlying cause. For example:
Be sure that your dog is well-exercised and mentally stimulated. Give her plenty of interesting toys and activities.
Reward your dog when she is quiet and remove your attention when she barks. (Sounds backwards, but it really works!)
Often we can put alert barking “on cue.” Interrupt your dog with a “thank you” after she barks once and give her a reward. Then put a word before the bark and teach her to “speak.”
Be patient! It takes time to reduce barking, and it may get worse before it gets better. Just hang in there!
For further assistance with barking or other aspects of dog training and behavior, click here to register for a class or schedule an in-home or telephone consultation with R. I. Dog Guy!
Destructive Doggy Digging!
Dogs dig because they are dogs! More specifically, they dig because:
There’s something interesting under there, like a rodent or a bug!
It’s hot out, and the freshly dug ground is so cool!
They want to go under the fence; it’s so much more interesting on the other side.
They are bored—nothing better to do around here!
It’s in their genes! Terriers were bred to hunt vermin under ground; naturally they dig a lot!
It’s just good dirty fun!
So what do I do about it?
Manage the situation: Don’t leave your dog unsupervised in places where he may dig up valuable plants or lawn areas.
Provide plenty of exercise and stimulating toys. A sleeping dog doesn’t dig! Neither does one that is occupied with interesting chew toys and other safe objects.
Give your dog plenty of water, and keep him indoors or in the shade on hot days.
For serious diggers, consider providing an area where it’s ok to dig. Frame off an area, fill it with mixed soil and sand, and “seed” it with some interesting toys and treats. Reward the dog enthusiastically when he digs in the right place!
For further assistance with digging or other aspects of dog training and behavior, click here to register for a class or schedule an in-home or telephone consultation with R. I. Dog Guy!
Separation Anxiety
True separation anxiety is a relatively rare condition, characterized by extreme discomfort accompanied by destructiveness or self-injury. While few dogs have this very disturbing behavior, many dogs show milder signs of anxiety when left alone. The following approach can help to relieve anxiety and treat separation issues.
Prevention:
As with any behavior problem, it is usually easier to prevent than to treat. To reduce the probability of separation anxiety, begin when your dog first becomes a member of your household. Keep your comings and goings low-key; avoid getting your dog overly excited.
Be sure that your dog has lots of appropriate toys, plenty of water and a comfortable, confined space in which to hang out. Gated rooms or exercise pens are ideal; a crate is appropriate for short-term confinement, but should not be used for more than a couple of hours.
Be sure that your dog has plenty of exercise—a sleeping dog is not anxious!
Work diligently on housetraining and appropriate chewing. (See our handouts on these topics.) Over time, your dog will probably become increasingly reliable and can be given more home space for relaxing when you are out.
Treatment:
If your dog has separation issues, you can often mitigate them through these steps. Once again, avoid arousing your dog when departing or returning. Increase exercise and “puppy-proof” your dog’s space by removing objects that are valuable or could be unsafe. If your dog has been destructive or eliminated in the house, do not correct or punish after the fact. Your dog will not be able to associate the punishment with its action and may become even more anxious when you return. Begin to desensitize your dog to your leaving. Write down all of the “triggers’ that predict your leaving such as picking up keys, putting on a coat, grabbing a pocketbook or brief case. Begin by randomly carrying out these actions during the day without actually leaving. The goal is to break the dog’s connection between the triggers and being alone. Caution: if the dog’s anxiety is severe, be sure to work on only one trigger at a time and be very brief until your dog is comfortable. You will also need to “counter-condition” your dog so that it actually feels positively about your leaving cues. To do this, work on one cue at a time. Perform the action and then give your dog something desirable. Stuffed Kongs ® are ideal. Fill the hollow toy with something yummy like peanut butter, liverwurst or cream cheese. Freezing the Kong will make it longer lasting. Repeat this several times a day and continue until your dog is more relaxed when he sees or hears the cue. This may take a number of days. Then work systematically on the other cues, one at a time and then in combination. When you have covered all of the cues, counter-condition your dog to your entire leaving ritual. If different family members have different routines, it may be necessary to counter-condition all of them. While you are working on desensitization and counter-conditioning, try to eliminate periods of anxiety to the extent possible. To do this, you may be able to find a friend or family member who can stay with your dog or take it in. There are also commercial pet sitting services, dog day care facilities and boarding kennels where your dog may find company. Perhaps you can take your dog along on errands or even to work. (Caution: Never leave your dog alone in the car in even moderately warm weather.) Sometimes anxiety is reduced by changing the dog’s location in the house. Getting another dog is a risky approach to reducing anxiety, because the dogs’ reactions to one another can be unpredictable. Many dogs have been calmed through the use of aromatherapy. Bach flower essences, Rescue Remedy ® and Comfort Zone ® dog appeasing pheromones (DAP) may be helpful. They are available at many pet stores and from online suppliers. Severe separation anxiety can sometimes be mitigated with medication. Talk to your vet about whether this is appropriate. Medication alone, however, is usually not effective. A systematic course of behavior modification is also necessary.
We would be happy to work with you and your dog on separation issues. These usually require an in-home consultation; please call (401) 339-2398 or email info@ridogguy.com for more information.
Reactive Rovers are those dogs that bark and lunge incessantly, especially when on their leashes. Such dogs can be challenging in public, to the point that walking them can be really unpleasant. Here are some tips for working with Reactive Rovers.
Prevention:
As with other behavior problems, early training and socialization can reduce the likelihood that reactive behavior will develop.
Be sure the your young puppy is exposed to other dogs, many types of people and new situations. The best time to do this is when the dog is 2-3 months old and its reactions to novel experiences are still forming. See our handout, Sociable Dogs are Happy Dogs for suggestions.
Begin to train basic obedience commands early. Young puppies learn quickly through positive reinforcement. Teach your dog its name, an attention command and a recall. Work on loose-leash walking. Teach your dog a “leave it” command. (See our handout for the method.) The more control you have, the better you will be able to interrupt or prevent reactive behavior.
Avoid pulling back on the leash if your dog reacts to another dog. Straining forward on its leash can be mistaken for an aggressive body posture by another canine. Try to get your dog’s attention and move away with a loose leash if possible.
Treatment:
The approach to treating reactive behavior will depend on why your dog is reacting!
A dog that barks at other dogs or people in the home or its yard may be alerting the pack (us) to encroachments on its territory. Often such alert barking can be put on cue. After one or two barks, interrupt the dog by saying, “Thank you!” and give the dog a treat. Then look at the object of your dog’s attention yourself and give a signal that you (the “pack leader”) will take responsibility by saying something like, “I’ll take care of it.” After a number of repetitions, many dogs will bark once or twice to alert you and then look to you to take over. See our handout on Barking for more ideas.
Some dogs simply want to play or explore. These dogs will show excitement but not anxiety. They may bark enthusiastically and pull on the leash, but their body language will be relaxed—tail wagging in a middle position, mouth open but no teeth showing, ears slightly forward, body leaning forward but not lunging. They may “play bow,” stretching down with their front legs while keeping their hindquarters high. For these dogs, use the name or attention command to interrupt their behavior, reward their response, and move along. If it is safe, you can let the dog visit the other dog or person as a reward to your dog for giving you its attention.
Some dogs react from anxiety. Such dogs will lower their bodies and tails, pull their ears back and retract their mouths. Anxious dogs must be treated through a process called Desensitization and Counter-conditioning to associate other dogs or people with pleasant experiences rather than fearful ones. To do this, try to set up a situation in which the dog encounters the source of its anxiety at a distance great enough that it does not react. Feed novel treats until the scary thing is no longer in sight. Very gradually, over a period of days to weeks, move closer to the source and feed treats so that the dog becomes more comfortable with the situation. See our handout on Desensitization and Counter-conditioning for details. If your anxious dog encounters a scary situation in uncontrolled conditions, try to interrupt it with an attention command and “throw a party!” Give your dog tasty treats and lots of affection until the scary thing passes. That will help to establish a positive connection.
A small number of dogs may show misdirected predatory behavior toward other dogs, small animals or even people. Their body language will show leaning or lunging toward the target, tail high, ears forward and mouth open with teeth showing. Barking and snarling are common signs as well. These dogs sometimes have genetic disorders or other underlying physical problems or may have been inadequately socialized or even abused. For such dogs, safety is paramount. They should be under control at all times, leashed and wearing a head halter and/or no-pull harness, as well as a muzzle. Consistent work on strengthening obedience is essential and counter-conditioning may be helpful. A veterinary behaviorist may be able to prescribe medication or other approaches, but a dog that shows this behavior requires lifetime management to reduce the possibility of serious injury to people and other animals, and to minimize owner liability.
We have a special class available for Reactive Rovers; please call (401) 849-1821 or email info@ridogguy.com for more information.
Reference: Pat Miller, Positive Perspectives; Jean Donaldson, Dogs are from Neptune